Have you ever heard of double cleansing? Well if not you’re in there right place, we are going to go over what it is and why you need to do it.
Skincare Newsflash: Makeup wipes and single-use plastic are no longer “haute.” Thanks to the rise of Korean skincare in North America, “Pre-Cleansing” or “Double Cleansing” is actually becoming more and more popular. So what is it and why should you be doing it? Unlike the name implies, double-cleansing is not just washing your face–twice. Using a water-based cleanser twice could strip your skin, cause irritation and dryness. Instead, first, use an oil-based cleanser to break down heavy-duty products such as water-resistant sunscreens, setting sprays and, and of course makeup.
Double-cleansing makes your skin truly clean–not just makeup-free. The oil cleanser removes the layer of makeup and pollutants, then allows the water-based cleanser to truly clean the skin. Incorporating a pre-cleanse or oil cleanse is a gentle way to achieve a deep yet non-drying cleanse that allows the active ingredients that follow to penetrate and perform their intended magic.
To a certain extent, many makeup wearers have already been doing this two-step cleanse with oil-based makeup removers and cold creams. And yes, some have even tried the dreaded makeup wipe.
Below are the three “new” ways to oil cleanse that all the cool kids are talking about right now are.
Micellar Water
Micellar water is made of “micelles” which are tiny balls of cleansing oil molecules that are suspended in soft water. Though it does not appear to be greasy, its microscopic micelles attract oil.
To learn more about the history and mechanics of Micellar water here.
There are Micellar Waters that range in price but I can confidently say that you do not need to spend money on an expensive Micellar Water. My all-time favourite is the Simple. It is gentle, effective, cheap, and easy to find at any drug store. Simply drench a cotton round, and wipe it across your face. Allow the drenched cotton rounds to rest on your eyes for a few moments to help loosen eye makeup before wiping.
Ideally, you are going to follow Micellar Water with a regular cleanser. As a result, there is no need to purchase any expensive micellar products that tout fancy ingredients because they would all be washed off within a matter of moments. The Simple brand from any drug store will do the job just fine.
Cleansing Oil
Cleansing oils are a mixture of oils with emulsifiers. Technically, you could use a single oil, such as sweet almond oil or jojoba as a cleansing oil, and many people with dry skin do. However, I recommend an official cleansing oil (which contains emulsifiers) for beginners. The emulsifiers make it wash for your face without a heavy oil residue left behind.
To start, apply about two pumps of cleansing oil to dry skin. Massage down face neck, eyes, and lashline to remove make, sunscreen and unseen pollutants. Then, massage a few drops of water into the face. The emulsifiers will mix the water with the oil and cause it to turn milky. Rinse off this milky mixture and then follow with your regular cleanser.
Any skin added botanicals or ingredients used for marketing purposes in a cleansing oil will not benefit your skin. Any active ingredient will only be on your skin for a few moments before it is washed down the drain. Cleansing oils span price categories but you only need to pay as much as it takes for you to find one that you like enough that you will want to use.
Personally, I find cleansing oils easier because I just pump them into my hands like I do hands soap. I often am exhausted when I am taking off my makeup at the end of the day so the products with the “path of least resistance” is what is going to actually get used. Pumping oil into my hand is easier for my exhausted self than unscrewing the lid off my cleansing balms.
Cleansing Balms
Cleansing balms are sooooooo much more luxurious than cleansing oils and the user experience is so much more delicious. First, you scoop out a nickel’s sized amount of product and rub the balm between the palm of your hands for a few seconds until it melts.
Follow the same steps as the cleansing oil above.
Oil Cleansing and Skin Conditions
I especially need a double-cleanse in my routine. I have a skin condition called Melasma. When the sun hits my skin my face gets weird dark patches–essentially I turn into a calico cat. As a result, I reapply high SPF sunscreens numerous times throughout the day and wear a hat whenever I go outside.
On top of that, my skin gets extremely oily in the summers, so frequent powder applications and setting spray is required to keep makeup in place (on the odd day when I wear it during a global-pandemic). Needless to say, double-cleansing with an oil cleanse as the first step in my evening skincare routine is a MUST for my acne-prone skin. I have so many layers on it by the time I get to the end of the day!
Acne
That’s right, acne suffers can and should oil cleanse. Oil cleansing helps break down oily dirt and sebum (because like dissolves like). A thorough, yet gentle cleanse to get rid of the debris that the acne-causing family of bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) that causes acne feeds on.
However, be sure to follow your oil cleanser with a (regular) water-based cleanser. It is the best way to get gentle yet thorough clean without stripping your skin and compromising the barrier of your skin.
Double cleansing is an excellent way to achieve a thorough cleanse without stripping your skin’s natural oils. I recommend it for all skin types.
